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第 40 课 · 海浪 Lesson 40 · Waves

海浪是海洋与大气之间搏斗的产物,是无限的永恒印记。

Waves are the children of the struggle between ocean and atmosphere, the ongoing signatures of infinity.

来自太阳的光线激发并活化地球的大气层,唤醒它去流动、去运动、去律动、去生命。

Rays from the sun excite and energize the atmosphere of the earth, awakening it to flow, to movement, to rhythm, to life.

风随后将太阳的讯息传递给大海,而大海则通过海浪将其继续传送——那是一条古老而精妙有力的讯息。

The wind then speaks the message of the sun to the sea and the sea transmits it on through waves--an ancient, exquisite powerful message.

这些海浪是地球上最为复杂的自然现象之列。

These ocean waves are among the earth's most complicated natural phenomena.

其基本特征包括:波峰(波浪的最高点)、波谷(最低点)、波高(波谷到波峰的垂直距离)、波长(两个相邻波峰之间的水平距离),以及周期(一个波峰移动一个波长所需的时间)。

The basic features include a crest (the highest point of the wave), a trough (the lowest point), a height (the vertical distance from the trough to the crest), a wave length (the horizontal distance between two wave crests), and a period (which is the time it takes a wave crest to travel one wave length).

尽管海浪给人造成一堵水墙朝你方向移动的印象,但实际上波浪只是穿过水体传播,而水本身基本停留在原来的位置。

Although an ocean wave gives the impression of a wall of water moving in your direction, in actuality waves move through the water leaving the water about where it was.

如果水真的随波浪一同移动,那么整个海洋及其上面的一切都将奔涌扑向海岸,产生显而易见的灾难性后果。

If the water was moving with the wave, the ocean and everything on it would be racing in to the shore with obviously catastrophic results.

一个海浪穿过深水时,会使水面上的一个质点以大致圆形的轨道运动:先被向前推进的波浪拉向前方,再被带入波浪上升,然后随波浪向前移动,最后——当波浪将质点甩在身后时——回到起始点。

An ocean wave passing through deep water causes a particle on the surface to move in a roughly circular orbit, drawing the particle first towards the advancing wave, then up into the wave, then forward with it and then--as the wave leaves the particles behind--back to its starting point again.

从诞生、成熟直至消亡,一个波浪所服从的规律与任何其他"生命"体相同。

From both maturity to death, a wave is subject to the same laws as any other 'living' thing.

它在一段时间内呈现出一种神奇的个体性,而这种个体性最终被重新吸纳回生命的大洋之中。

For a time it assumes a miraculous individuality that, in the end, is reabsorbed into the great ocean of life.

广阔大海上起伏的波浪由三种自然成因产生:风、地球运动或震动,以及月球和太阳的引力牵引。

The undulating waves of the open sea are generated by three natural causes: wind, earth movements or tremors, and the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun.

一旦波浪形成,重力便是驱动它们的力量,在不断的努力中试图将海面恢复为一个平坦的平面。

Once waves have been generated, gravity is the force that drives them in a continual attempt to restore the ocean surface to a flat plain.