在这个被人们走遍了的世界上,仍有成千上万的地方是游客无法到达的。
In this much-travelled world, there are still thousands of places which are inaccessible to tourists.
我们总是假定,偏远地区的村民是友善好客的。
We always assume that villagers in remote places are friendly and hospitable.
但是,那些不仅与外国游客隔绝、甚至与自己的同胞也隔绝的人们,可能会对旅行者充满敌意。
But people who are cut off not only from foreign tourists, but even from their own countrymen can be hostile to travellers.
造访真正偏远村庄的经历很少是令人愉快的——这一点,我和妻子在游历巴尔干半岛时深有体会。
Visits to really remote villages are seldom enjoyable--as my wife and I discovered during a tour through the Balkans.
我们已在一座小镇住了几天,并参观了附近的许多古老教堂。
We had spent several days in a small town and visited a number of old churches in the vicinity.
这些教堂吸引了许多游客,因为它们不仅在建筑上有极高的价值,而且还保存着大量精美的壁画。
These attracted many visitors, for they were not only of great architectural interest, but contained a large number of beautifully preserved frescoes as well.
就在我们启程前一天,数车游客蜂拥涌入小镇。
On the day before our departure, several bus loads of tourists descended on the town.
这已超出我们所能忍受的限度,于是我们决定把最后这天用来探索乡间。
This was more than we could bear, so we decided to spend our last day exploring the countryside.
我们沿着一条通向镇外的小路前行,穿越了几片田野,直到来到一片茂密的树林。
Taking a path which led out of the town, we crossed a few fields until we came to a dense wood.
我们以为这条小路会突然消失,但发现它蜿蜒穿行于树木之间。
We expected the path to end abruptly, but we found that it traced its way through the trees.
我们在树林中跋涉了两个多小时,终于来到一条深深的溪流旁。
We tramped through the wood for over two hours until we arrived at a deep stream.
我们看得出小路在溪流对岸继续延伸,但完全不知道怎样才能渡过这条溪流。
We could see that the path continued on the other side, but we had no idea how we could get across the stream.
突然间,我妻子发现了一只系泊在岸边的小船。
Suddenly my wife spotted a boat moored to the bank.
船里有一个船夫,正在酣睡。
In it there was a boatman fast asleep.
我们轻轻地将他唤醒,请求他把我们渡到对岸去。
We gently woke him up and asked him to ferry us to the other side.
虽然他起初不情愿,但我们最终还是说服了他带我们过去。
Though he was reluctant to do so at first, we eventually persuaded him to take us.
这条小路通向一个小村庄,村子高踞于山坡的陡峭边缘上。
The path led to a tiny village perched on the steep sides of a mountain.
这个地方只有一条杂乱延伸的土路,两侧排列着低矮的小屋。
The place consisted of a straggling unmade road which was lined on either side by small houses.
即便是在晴朗的蓝天下,这个村庄看上去仍令人望而生畏,因为所有房子都是用灰色泥砖砌成的。
Even under a clear blue sky, the village looked forbidding, as all the houses were built of grey mud bricks.
村子看似空无一人,唯一的生命迹象是附近一块田地里拴在树上的一只用短绳系着的、相貌丑陋的黑山羊。
The village seemed deserted, the only sign of life being an ugly-looking black goat on a short length of rope tied to a tree in a field nearby.
我们坐在田边一道破旧的木栅栏上,打开了几罐沙丁鱼,在那里吃起了野餐午饭。
Sitting down on a dilapidated wooden fence near the field, we opened a couple of tins of sardines and had a picnic lunch.
突然间,我注意到妻子似乎充满了惊恐。
All at once, I noticed that my wife seemed to be filled with alarm.
我抬起头来,发现我们已被一群衣衫褴褛的孩子团团围住,他们一言不发地注视着我们进食。
Looking up I saw that we were surrounded by children in rags who were looking at us silently as we ate.
我们给他们食物,亲切地和他们说话,但他们纹丝不动。
We offered them food and spoke to them kindly, but they remained motionless.
我断定他们只不过是对陌生人感到腼腆。
I concluded that they were simply shy of strangers.
当我们稍后走过村子的主街时,身后跟随着一列无声的儿童队伍。
When we later walked down the main street of the village, we were followed by a silent procession of children.
那个原本看似空无一人的村庄,顷刻间活跃了起来。
The village which had seemed deserted, immediately came to life.
一张张面孔出现在窗户上。
Faces appeared at windows.
穿着衬衫(不穿外套)的男人们站在各自门前,怒视着我们。
Men in shirt sleeves stood outside their houses and glared at us.
披着黑色披肩的老妇们从门洞里探头窥视着我们。
Old women in black shawls peered at us from doorways.
最令人恐惧的,是连一点声音都听不见。
The most frightening thing of all was that not a sound could be heard.
毫无疑问,我们是不受欢迎的访客。
There was no doubt that we were unwelcome visitors.
我们不需要更多的警示了。
We needed no further warning.
我们转身沿着主街快步返回,加快脚步,迅速朝那条溪流赶去——我们希望船夫还在那里等候。
Turning back down the main street, we quickened our pace and made our way rapidly towards the stream where we hoped the boatman was waiting.